The Campo dei Miracoli (“Field of Miracles”) is the most visited square in Pisa. This is of course mainly because of the presence of the Leaning Tower. However, there are also other attractions, including the city’s Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Camposanto and two museums.
Campo dei Miracoli Pisa, a brief history
The Campo dei Miracoli is actually called Piazza dei Miracoli. People sometimes think the name Campo dei Miracoli is somehow connected to Pinocchio, who “plants” money in a field of that name, but the story is not even set in Pisa.
The name Campo (instead of “Piazza”) can be explained by the fact that a large part of the square is taken up by a lawn.
Excavations (in the 19th, the 20th and finally in the early 21st century) have shown that the area was already occupied by an Etruscan Temple in the 7th century BC. The religious buildings were constructed between the 6th and 5th centuries BC.
During the late Republican period, the Romans constructed some domus in the area, which were in use till the 5th century AD. The wealthy domus were subsequently replaced by more modest housing.
In the Lombard era (7th-8th) century, a necropolis and an octagonal baptistery were constructed. A first cathedral had probably already been built in the 6th century.
Unlike in most cities, the cathedral was constructed at the edge of the medieval settlement, instead of in its center. It was not even located within the first, early-medieval city wall protecting the city. The Campo and its buildings were included within the walls that were constructed by Cocco Griffi in 1155.
In the 11th century, the Canonici della Cattedrale acquired several properties in the area and started building the present cathedral.
The entire Campo dei Miracoli got its current shape in the 19th century, when the architect Alessandro Gherardesca restored the most important buildings, but also demolished some less interesting constructions.
What to see in the Piazza dei Miracoli
The most striking building is of course the Leaning Tower (Torre Pendente) of Pisa, which for years has been tempting tourists to take funny pictures.
Next to the tower is the Duomo, the cathedral of Pisa, built in the 11th century.
The Baptistery is the round building that stands in the middle of the field. Its interior is decorated with 14th century frescoes.
The Camposanto is a walled cemetery on the north side of the square. Although construction began in the 13th century, it was only completed in the 15th century.
The former Santo Spirito Hospital now houses the Museo delle Sinopie.
A second museum on the square is the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, which is located in the building of the same name.
On the north and west side of Piazza dei Miracoli you can still see the old city walls, characterized by some towers (the Torre di Catallo and the Torre di Santa Maria) and city gates (the Porta Nuova and the Porta del Leone).
Between the tower and the Palazzo dell’Opera del Duomo there is a statue of a wolf giving milk to two children, the symbol of Pisa. Sorry, the symbol of Rome. It was placed here in 1926 in honour of a visit by Mussolini.
The monumental vase close to the Porta di San Ranieri replaces an even more monumental version, which is however divided into parts and adorns several buildings in Pisa.
The fountain at the entrance to the square from the Via Santa Maria was designed by Giuseppe Vaccà and Giovanni Antonio Cybe.
What to know before you go
Bus: 070, 071, 110, 120, 140, 190. Train: Pisa San Rossore. Opening hours: Always open. Entrance fee: Free.
Campo dei Miracoli, Pisa
Bibliography
Bertini, Luca, Pisa itinerari. Guida alla visita della città.
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