The Capuchin Crypt is the main attraction of a relatively new museum dedicated to the history of the Capuchin monastic order in the Province of Rome. The crypt actually belongs to the Church of Santa Maria della Concezione on Via Veneto. It is decorated with the bones and remains of 4,000 deceased Capuchin monks. In the past, a small donation was sufficient, but now visitors must first pass through the museum. Not everyone finds it tasteful.
A brief history of the Capuchin Crypt in Rome
The Capuchin Crypt is the 8th and last section of the museum dedicated to the order. The chapel is located below the five chapels flanking the right nave of the church.
The crypt was constructed in the first half of the 16th century. There was no space left in the small cemetery where the friars used to be buried, so a new site was needed.
The open graves, each containing a visible skeleton, are located along a 40 meter long hallway. The five chapels are decorated with symbols refering to life, death and the transience of our existence. The symbols were made of the bones of 4000 Capuchin monks. One of the more obvious examples is an hourglass, made of a mosaic of bones. Flowers, both wilted and fresh, are attached to the walls. And for those who still don’t get it, the motto, “We were like you, and you will be like us” is displayed at the entrance.
From 1528, when Cardinal Antonio Barberini, brother of the then Pope, had several graves relocated to the crypt, until 1870, all friars, and also several poor people, were buried here.
The earth covering the ground of the crypt was supposedly imported from Jerusalem, by order of Pope Urban VIII.
Although not everybody agrees, the impression is not as macaber as one would expect. It also needs to be pointed out that ideas, habits and traditions change over time. What is now seen as macaber or distasteful, was much less so in the 17th century, and it was quite normal for monks to hold a skull while praying in one of the chapels.
Myth
During the pontificate of Gregory XVI (1831-1846), the friar Fra Angelico was living in the Capuchin convent. Fra Angelico was notorious for being able to predict lottery numbers and many Romans used to visit him to ask for those numbers. When this became too expensive for the church, organizers of the lottery, Fra Angelico was sent away from Rome. When he arrived at the Porta del Popolo, he shouted Roma, se santa sei, perché crudel se’ tanta? Se dici che se’ santa, certo bugiarda sei (“Rome, if you are saintly, why are you so cruel? If you say you are saintly, you must be a liar”). The Romans playing these numbers (sessantasei = 60, settanta = 70, sedici = 16, sessanta = 60 en sei = 6) subsequently emptied the church coffers.
Capuchin Museum Rome
Which might be why in 2012 the, till then free, crypt was made into the main attraction of the Museo e Cripta dei Cappuccini, a small museum highlighting the history and aims of the Capuchin Order, which stresses a simple lifestyle with strong bonds between people.
Section 1: Convent
The first section is dedicated to the convent itself. This was, together with the adjacent church built in 1626 by Michele da Bergamo. Its construction was commissioned by the Barberini family.
Sections 2 & 3: People
Section 2 contains portraits of influential Capuchin friars from the province of Rome itself, while section 3 is dedicated to Capuchin saints in general.
Section 4: Culture and church
The 4th room contains religious objects and clothing, especially the habits worn by members of the order. There is also information about crucifixes.
Section 5: Caravaggio
None other than Caravaggio painted the “Meditating Saint Francis” especially for the convent. The entire room is dedicated to this painting.
Section 6: The Capuchin order in the 20th century.
This section is dedicated to Father Mariano of Turin.
Section 7: The Capuchin order in the world
Section 7 highlights the missionary work of the order in the course of its history.
Church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini
Although the crypt used to be its biggest attraction, there is still enough to see in the church to make a visit worth your while. The various chapels are graced with paintings by famous artists, such as Lanfranco, Guido Reni, Domenichino and Pietro da Cortona. The church was commissioned by Urban VIII, a member of the Barberini family. The architect Antonio Casoni designed a single nave church with 5 chapels on each side.
Address, opening times and admission
Address: Via Vittorio Veneto, 27 – 00187 Roma (District: Ludovisi). Phone: +39 06 88803695. Public transport: Metro: Barberini (line A). Opening times: 09:30 till 13:30 and 14:30 till 18:30. Admission: 10 Euros (Over 65, under18, students: 6,50 Euros). Note that it is forbidden to use your camera inside the crypt.