Although the Esquilino district is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Rome, it is generally not considered to be part of the historical center. The 15th rione (R. XV) is named for one of the city’s famed seven hills. Its character is mainly caused by the presence of the central station Roma Termini. The biggest landmarks are the Basilica of Saint Mary Major and the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II.
A brief history of the Esquilino district
The original Esquilino was located outside the Servian Wall, the first city wall to have been built around Rome. The meaning of the Latin word esquiliae is “suburbs”. The current district is located within the more recently constructed Aurelian Wall, however.
What is now Esquilino was one of the earliest inhabited areas in Rome. When the city, during the reign of Augustus, was first divided into regiones, present-day Monti was still part of Esquilino (then regione no. V). The three hill tops called Cispius, Oppius and Fagutalis formed the eastern part of the district. The two parts were separated by the Servian wall.
In those days, a big part of the district was used as a garbage dump. Another part was used as a burial ground for slaves and for poor people. When Augustus became Emperor, he had the dirty and unhealthy area covered with layers and layers of soil.
Mecenate had his gardens constructed in the district. These were later destroyed, when the population grew, which led to a shortage of houses. The Auditorio di Mecenate was only rediscovered in 1874.
After the end of Augustus‘ reign, wealthy Romans continued using the area to construct their villas. The Porta Alchemica, also known as Porta Magica, in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, used to belong to one of these. The Trofei di Mario this gate was built against used to be the show fountain of the Aqua Julia Aqueduct.
When the Aurelian Wall was constructed, the villa’s buildings were separated from their gardens. Rome continued expanding and the gardens were destroyed to solve the housing crisis.
Public buildings, including a barracks, were constructed. Streets leading to the main gates, Porta Maggiore and Porta Esquilina, were also laid.
The rise of Christianiy led to the construction of many churches in the area, especially in the triangle between the Basilicas of St. John Lateran, St. Mary Major and Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. St. Mary Major, originally in the Monti district, became part of Esquilino in 1921.
During the Middle Ages, Esquilino lost much of its luster. According to legend, witches and wizards used to gather at night and perform their rites in the area.
The second part of the 16th century saw a revival of the Esquilino district. Pope Gregory VIII had the Via Gregoriana constructed and his successor Sixtus VI did the same with the Via Felice. New villas were built and the rione again became a “green” neighborhood. The Via Gregoriana, which followed the route of the Roman Via Tabernacola, later became the Via Merulana. The Porta San Giovanni, which replaced the Porta Asinara when the latter did not suffice anymore, also dates back to this period.
In 1870, Rome became capital of Italy. The central station was built and in the adjacent area big palaces were constructed for government workers. New roads were created. Unlike the older ones, which were mainly constructed to connect the main churches, the new ones followed a grid pattern. The only villas that (partially) survived were the Villa Altieri, the Villa Massimo and the Villa Wolkonsky.
Nowadays Esquilino, and especially the area directly around the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, is an immigrant district, with several streets completely taken up by shops selling cheap Chinese clothing and trinkets. In the streets directly adjacent to Termini, you will find many cheap Rome b&b’s and hostels.
The central square of the area, and biggest one of the entire city, is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. It is also unique, since it is the only square in Rome that is (almost) completely surrounded by porticoes.
The building that decides the character of the Esquilino neighborhood is the main railway station Roma Termini. Especially the area between Piazza Vittorio and the station is teeming with cheap B&B’s, hostels and other accommodation options. Unfortunately, the fast food restaurants and souvenir shops have replaced most of the small family-run trattorie in this part of the district.
Tourist attractions
The Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore is the most important tourist attraction of the area. Thanks to its position on top of the Cispius hill it is also very visible. It is one of the four patriarchal basilicas and the favorite church of the present Pope.
Other interesting churches in the district are Santa Bibiana and Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. Other Esquilino tourist attractions are the aquaducts at the Porta Maggiore.
Take the Via Giolitti exit from Roma Termini and walk along this street till you come to the second tunnel under the railway tracks. The small church before the tunnel is the Santa Bibiana, the facade of which was designed by a 26 year old Bernini, who also contributed to its interior design. Walking further down the Via Giolitti you will come to the Temple of Minerva Medica on your left, and finally to the enormous Porta Maggiore city gate. It is here that most of Rome’s aqueducts used to enter the city.
Eating and sleeping
Esquilino is bordered by the Via Marsala in the north, the Via Cavour and the Monti neighborhood in the east, the university district San Lorenzo in the south and the Prenestino-Labicano district in the west. Since both the university district and Monti are popular night life districts, it is very easy to find good restaurants, bars and pubs nearby. Lately, the area around Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II has become a bit of a hot spot in itself.
The part of the neighborhood around the railway area is characterized by many cheaper hotels and other accommodation options.
Public transportation
The presence of the main railway station also assures easy access to public transportation. From Termini, bus lines travel in all directions, and there are several metro stops (Termini, Vittorio Emanuele and San Giovanni) in the area. The buses to the airports of Ciampino and Fiumicino also leave from Termini.
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