The excavations at Ostia Antica outside Rome constitute the biggest archeological site in the Lazio region. Better preserved than Pompeii, the ruins of this ancient port at the mouth of the river Tiber provide an invaluable insight into the way the Romans used to live in the heyday of the Empire.
A brief history of Ostia Antica
The first settlement and castrum
A predecessor of what is now known as Ostia Antica was probably constructed by the 4th king of Rome, Ancus Martius, in the 7th century BC. Relatively recent finds of necropolises at the localites Ficana and Politorium would seem to confirm this theory. It is certain that a Roman settlement protecting the river mouth and the Etruscan salt mines at nearby Maccarese existed in the 4th century BC. This military stronghold (castrum) developed into a commercial harbor, from where goods arriving by sea were transported to Rome itself. At the time, the castrum consisted of no more than a decumano and a cardine, protected by tuff stone walls with four entrances.
Military and commercial harbor
Ostia quickly developed into a flourishing city. Huge ships from all over the Mediterranean dropped their goods at the warehouses (horrea) of Ostia. Since the river Tiber was rather shallow near the coast, from here the merchandise was shipped to Rome by means of flat barges.
The hamlet also developed into a military stronghold, keeping pace with the increasing power of Rome itself. The castrum was enlarged and a new wall was constructed around what had rapidly become an actual city. The importance of Ostia is indicated by the fact that its inhabitants did not have to do military service.
When this first river harbor became unable to handle the quantities of goods, the emperor Claudius in 42 AD had the Porto di Claudio constructed, north of the original harbor.
By the year 100 AD, sedimentation had made the port of Claudius hard to reach as well, and Trajan had the Porto di Traiano constructed. He created an artificial lake, connected to the Tiber by a canal. The lake was hexagonal in shape, which enable more boats to be moored than would have normally been possible. (This canal was called Fosso Traiano and has now been transfored into the canal of Fiumicino. The ruins of the Porto di Traiano are also in Fiumicino. Unfortunately, they can only partly be visited, since some of its sections are on private property.)
Ostia was at its most powerful during the reign of Claudius and Trajan. Trajan‘s successor Hadrian organized the layout of the city, which subsequently saw the population increase to aroudn 50,000 inhabtiants. It remained an important port until the end of the 5th century, when the Barbarians (Visigoths and Vandals) attacked Rome. By the middle of the 6th century Ostia was abandoned. The few people remaining were workers in the salt mines, who moved to the Borgo that had sprung up around the basilica built on the tomb of Santa Aurea.
In 1557, there was an enormous flood, as a result of which the coastline ended up further from Ostia. The ruins were plundered and/or disappeared under layers of earth and mud.
After that the ancient city was abandoned and forgotten, until the mid-19th century, when the Pope ordered excavations. In the early 20th century, the area was further, and better, explored.
The well-preserved ruins include temples, baths, theaters and even a huge business complex.
What to see in Ostia Antica
The main street of ancient Ostia was the Decumano Massimo. This cobblestone road starts at the entrance to the park. Almost at the end, it splits up. To the left, it continues under the same name. To the right, it becomes the Via della Foce.
Piazzale delle Corporazioni: A huge square with more than 70 corporations. The mosaics give an idea of the nature of each business. It is located in front of the theater.
Theater: One of the oldest buildings in Ostia Antica and once the background to performances of classical Greek drama. Nowadays, during the summer months, still used for its original purpose. It was constructed by Augustus at the end of the 1st century BC, and enlarged in the 2nd century AD.
Ostia Forum: With a temple for the Gods Minerva, Jupiter and Juno. Several of its ancient columns are still standing.
Casa di Diana: An apartment complex, built around a central courtyard and dating back to the 2nd century AD. The courtyard was decorated with frescoes and mosaics, some still visible. There was also a mithraeum inside the complex.
Thermopolium: Thermopolium means “sale of hot drinks”, hence a cafe.
Forum: Located at the crossroads of the Decumano and the Cardo.
Capitolium: This 2nd century temple in the Forum was the biggest one of its kind in Ostia. Its altar is preserved in a relatively good state. The temple was dedicated to Zeus, Juno and Minerva. The Capitolium was built by Hadrian in 120 AD, and closed in 394, after Christianity had become the official religion of the Empire.
Synagogue: The oldest European synagogue of which ruins have been found.
Terme dei Cisiarii: Ancient Roman Baths with beautiful floor mosaics.
Terme di Nettuno
The Casone del Sale (“Salt House”) hosts the Museo Ostiense degli Scavi di Ostia Antica, which unfortunately is closed most of the time. Its collection includes imperial portraits and mythological basreliefs.
What to know before visiting Ostia Antica
Opening times
The Parco Archeologico di Ostia Antica is closed on Mondays, January 1st, December 25th.
The area opens at 08:30. Closing time depends on the time of year. From October 25th till February this is 16:30; in March, 17:15; April to September, 19:00; October 1 till 24, 18:30.
Last entry is one hour before closing time.
Tickets
The ticket is 18 Euros. EU citizen aged 18 to 25 pay 2 Euros. Children younger than 18 get free entry. This includes a visit to the Castle of Julius II, and, in neighboring Fiumicino, to the Museum of Ancient Boats, The Port of Trajan and the Necropolis. (The ticket is valid for seven days from the moment you use it.)
The attraction is free on the first Sunday of every month.
Some recommendations
- The ground is uneven, so wear good, comfortable shoes.
- The area is huge, so go early (especially in winter, when it gets dark quickly).
- If you wish to visit all five attractions, spread it out over two days. Especially in Fiumicino, although the attractions are geographically reasonably close together, the travel time is considerable (there being a canal between them, and no bridge nearby).
By car and public transport to Ostia Antica
From the GRA (the big roundabout around Rome), take exit 28 and follow either the Via del Mare or the Via Ostiense.
From the center of Rome, take metro line B to the Piramide stop and then the local train to Cristoforo Colombo. Get off at the Ostia Antica stop.
Ostia Antica Rome
Sources
- Information signs inside the Archaeological Park.
- Midlarz, Alessandro Giulio – Borghi a due passi da Roma.
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