The Palazzo della Cancelleria is a historic building in Rome. The San Lorenzo in Damaso Church already occupying the site was incorporated into the new palace. It is located between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Campo de’ Fiori and part of the palace houses a permanent exhibition dedicated to Leonardo Da Vinci.
A brief history of the Palazzo della Cancelleria in Rome
The Palazzo della Cancelleria, built in 1485, was one of the first Renaissance palaces to be built from the ground up in Rome. Construction was commissioned by Cardinal Raffaele Riario, a nephew of the then Pope Sixtus IV. According to legend, the cardinal had been able to complete the construction thanks to winning the lottery. The name of the architect(s) is unknown, although it has been variously attributed to Bramante, Andrea Bregno and Antonio da Montecavallo. (Bramante was excluded, because he was not in Rome at the time.)
In 1513, after some interruptions in the work, the construction was completed.
Not long after, when it became known that the money for its construction had been won in a lottery, the building was confiscated from the Riario. It was subsequently transformed into the seat of the Cancelleria Apostolica.
In 1709, Filippo Juvarra was commissioned to build a small theater inside the palazzo. This was later removed, however.
In 1880, while the Corso Vittorio Emanuele was being constructed, Vespignani oversaw a restoration of the Palazzo della Cancelleria.
On December 31, 1939, a fire caused the ceiling of the church of San Lorenzo in Damaso, and thus the floor of the Salone dei Cento Giorni, to collapse.
The palace had several important functions in the course of its history. At the very end of the 18th century it became the seat of the Tribunal of the Republic, in 1810 of Napoleon’s Imperial Court and in 1848 of the Roman Parliament. In 1849, the the Roman Republic was declared in the building.
Today, the Palazzo della Cancelleria is the seat of a several papal institutions and falls under the legislation of the Vatican.
What to see in the Palazzo della Cancelleria
Exterior
The facade is entirely covered in travertine marble, probably taken from the nearby Theater of Pompey. Other materials used in the building’s construction are thought to have been plundered from the Colosseum and from an arch of Gordian.
The corners stick out slightly compared to the main body of the building.
Both the coats of arms of the then Pope, Giuliano II, and of Sixtus IV (both members of the Della Rovere family) are visible on the facade.
The entrance is not on the main street, but in the Piazza della Cancelleria around the corner. The portal was the work of Domenico Fontana (1573-1627).
The balcony on the Campo de’ Fiori side was designed by Andrea Bregno.
Main courtyard
Although not responsible for the entire building, the design of the courtyard is attributed to Donato Bramante. The large purple columns of Egyptian origin supporting the loggia around the main courtyard were taken from the Theater of Pompey. Both portico and loggia are but sparsely decorated. The entrance to the Leonardo Da Vinci museum is at the back of the courtyard.
One returning decoration in the courtyard decorations is the white rose, the main element of the coat of arms of Cardinal Raffaele Riario. The most striking example is the manhole cover over the rainwater drain in the centre of the courtyard.
On one side of the courtyard, fragments of columns and other Roman architectural elements are on display.
Sala Riaria
The Sala Riaria is also known as Aula Magna and in 1961 became the seat of the Tribunale della Sacra Rota, which is the is the highest appellate tribunal of the Catholic Church. It was decorated in 1718 with scenes depicting the main events in the life of Pope Clement XI Albani. Baciccia frescoed the wall, including the very realistic clock.
Salone dei Cento Giorni
The Salone d’Onore on the piano nobile is graced by frescoes painted by Vasari and his students in 1546. The subjects of the frescoes, various events from the life of Pope Paul III Farnese, were suggested by Alessandro Farnese. The hall had to be ready for an imminent wedding, which was why Vasari managed to finish the work in only 100 days. The hall thus came to be known as the Salone dei Cento Giorni (“Hall of the 100 Days”). When Michelangelo was told the work had been done in 100 days, he supposedly replied: “You can tell”.
Other rooms
The other rooms of the Palazzo della Cancelleria are not open to the public.
The Salone di Studio is characterized by the vault painted by Perin del Vaga.
The Appartamento Cardinalizio houses the Cappella del Pallio (decorated in 1548 with plasterwork and paintings by Salviati).
During excavations in the 1940s, a mithraeum, the sepulcher of the consul Aulo Irzio and some reliefs were brought to light. The reliefs are now in the Musei Vaticani.
Underground
The underground of the palace cannot usually be visited either. Those lucky enough to have the opportunity will find the Euripus, an artificial canal that supplied water to the Baths of Agrippa, and the tomb of Aulus Hirtius, one of Julius Caesar’s commanders in Gaul.
Visiting Palazzo della Cancelleria
The address of the Palazzo della Cancelleria is Piazza della Cancelleria, 1 – Rome (tel. +39 0669887566). Bus: 46, 62, 64, 916, 916F, N5, N15, N20.
The Sala Riaria and the Salone dei Cento Giorni can be visited only with a guided tour on Tuesday afternoon and Saturday morning. The entrance fee is 7 Euro. Those wishing to see the Cappella del Pallio must make reservations at least one month in advance (tel. +39 06 69893405 or e-mail economato@apsa.va). Visiting times: Monday and Thursday afternoons. It is forbidden to take photographs in this chapel.
Opening hours Leonardo Da Vinci Museum: Weekdays from 07.30 to 20.00; Sundays and holidays from 09.30 to 19.00. Admission: 9 Euros.
Palazzo della Cancelleria, Rome
Sources
- Armando Ravaglioli, Vedere e capire Roma (1980).
- Photos are my own (©RenatoProsciutto).
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