The Piazza del Grillo is a small, but very picturesque square in the Monti neighborhood in Rome. Its main points of interest are the arch (Arco dei Conti) connecting two parts of the Palazzo del Grillo and the tower called Torre del Grillo. The street on the other side of the arch is known as the Salita del Grillo.
A brief history of the Piazza del Grillo in Rome
The medieval tower was constructed in 1223. The original owners were called Carboni. They sold the building to the Conti. In 1675, it was acquired by the Grillo.
According to legend, the Marquis di Grillo the square is named after, was a rather extravagant figure. He hated Jews and was rumored to pelt them with stones when he recognized one below his windows. Jewish people in those days were only allowed to leave the Ghetto when wearing an orange-yellow garment called sciamanno, so were easily recognizable. When the Rabbi went to the Pope to complain, the latter told the marquis to stop throwing stones, and use fruit instead.
Palazzo del Grillo
The Palazzo del Grillo consists of two parts, connected by the Arco dei Conti. The part to the left (seen from the piazza) of the arch consists of five floors, the part on the right only has three. After the Grillo became owners, they renovated the building and added the corbel crowning. Since they were rather proud of this, they also added an epigraph saying “EX MARCHIONE DE GRILLIS“. In the 19th century, Nicolis de Robilant acquired the palazzo.
After World War II, the expressionist painter Renato Guttuso, who was also a Senator for the Italian Communist party, had his studio in the building.
What to see in the Palazzo del Grillo
The facade is decorated with shells and lion heads. This is repeated in the Baroque portal, which is crowned with similar ornaments.
From the vestibule, a staircase leads to a garden decorated with nymphaeums and fountains.
One highlight is the fountain made by Baltasar Permoser in 1676. Another one is the portal with four columns flanked by statues of Minerva and Mercury, with a putto and a female figure holding a bas-relief on the typmanum.
The interior has rooms with frescoed ceilings, a chapel and a gallery decorated with stucco ornaments.
Torre del Grillo
The perfectly preserved medieval tower, known as Torre del Grillo, is incorporated in the left part. It is sometimes also called Torre della Miliziola, to distinguish it from the nearby Torre delle Milizie. The roof terrace was added when the Marquis bought the building.
Arco dei Conti
The name of the arch dates back to the time the Conti family owned the complex.
House of the Knight of Rhodes
The entrance to the House of the Knights of Rhodes is in the Piazza del Grillo, 1. This building, which is even more picturesque from the other side, is embedded in some ancient buidlings from Trajan’s Forum, features the Cappella Palatina di San Giovanni Battista dei Cavalieri di Rodi.
Via Campo Carleo
The short alley between the house and the Torre dei Conti is called Via Campo Carleo. It follows part of a Roman road connecting Trajan’s Forum to what was then the Suburra district. The steps at the end on the right belonged to the original street. The five walled-up entrances you can also see here used to give access to tabernae.
Salita del Grillo
The Salita del Grillo starts on the other side of the arch and leads from the piazza to the Largo Magnanapoli, passing several historical buildings and some ruins of ancient Roman houses on the way. A statue depicting Dionysus, which was found in this street, can be seen in the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme museum. The statue dates back to the 2nd half of the 2nd century AD.
Piazza del Grillo – Rome
Sources
- Guida ai misteri segreti di Roma (Sugar Editore, 1972).
- The Rome Guide – Step by Step through History’s Greatest City (Mauro Lucentini, 2012 edition).