The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Rome was constructed right after the unification of Italy, in 1870. It was named for the first King of Italy and is the city’s biggest square (316 by 147m), bigger even than Saint Peter’s Square. Thirteen streets lead away from the square. In 2020, it reopened after a two year renovation.
What to see in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
Trofei di Mario and Porta Magica
In one corner of the piazza there are some mysterious ruins, at the back of which the Porta Magica (Magical Door), with inscriptions and algebraical formulas, can be seen. This gate was the entrance to the Villa Palombara, residence of the alchemist Massimiliano II Palombara. The two statues of the god Bes were taken from the gardens of the Palazzo del Quirinale. The Villa Palombara was destroyed when the whole area south of Piazza Vittorio was chosen as the site for new constructions after the Unification of Italy and the choice of Rome as the new country’s capital. The ruins themselves are known as the Trofei di Mario.
In 1925, a monument dedicated the victims of World War I from the Esquilino, Viminale and Macao districts was placed against the Trofei di Mario. The latter two are now part of respectively Monti and Castro Pretorio. The monument was made by Guido Caraffa.
Fontana del Glauco
The sculpture group near the western entrance was originally meant for the Fountain of the Naiads in Piazza della Repubblica. The Romans did not like the design (three tritons, a dolphin and a large octopus, locked in a struggle) and nicknamed the group Fritto Misto (“Mixed Fry”). Mario Rutelli made a new group for the fountain and his original version was removed and later placed in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II.
Porticoes
An unusual trait for Rome is the presence of porticoes on all sides. This is probably a nod to Turin, where the king was born, and where many streets have porticoes.
Gaetano Koch buildings (n. 46 and 110)
Two of the buildings (numbers 46 and 110), on opposite sides of the square, were built by the architect Gaetano Koch. Koch was also responsible for the Palazzo della Banca d’Italia (Via Nazionale) and the two concave buildings facing the Piazza della Repubblica.
What to do in Piazza Vittorio
During the summer months Piazza Vittorio houses a movie festival where, at very low prices, one can see (synchronized versions) of the blockbusters of the past year.
There is also a small, badly maintained, children’s playground in the Piazza Vittorio.
A brief history of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Rome
In Roman times, this area was taken up by the Horti Lamiani. Built in the early first century AD by the consul Lucio Elio Lamia, a friend of emperor Tiberius, this was a private villa surrounded by gardens. Later, the Horti Lamiani became imperial property. Starting from the 16th century, excavations have brought to light several works of art from the villa.
It may seem strange that the first king of Italy was called Victor Emmanuel II, but this is because by the time he was crowned he had already been the second King Vittorio of Sardinia since 1849.
The first stone of the buildings surrounding the square was laid in 1882. Work on the gardens was started in 1887. The excavations brought to light all kinds of artifacts, including bronze objects, marble inscriptions, tombs, vases and statues, ancient water conduits and other remains of ancient Roman houses.
The architect Gaetano Koch took his inspiration from English gardens. This means that it has a rectangular shape, a central garden, and is lined by big, stately buildings.
Several existing constructions needed to be destroyed in order to create the new piazza. One of these was the socalled Casa Tonda, a mausoleum which may have contained the remains of Mecenate. At some point transformed into a private house, the building was demolished in 1886. Its foundation was discovered during excavations for the construction of metro line A, in 1975.
In 1902, a spice market was opened in the Viale Manzoni, while Piazza Vittorio Emanuele became the site of a daily vegetable market.
Later, the vegetable market expanded to include fish and other foods. Junkies used to sleep between the stalls, which of course did not enhance its reputation. The market has since been moved indoors, to the Via Principe Amedeo II (one block north of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II), the piazza has cleaned up its act and is now one of Rome‘s most lively and beautiful squares.
In 2020, after a restoration that lasted 20 months, the square was reopened.
Opening hours Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
The garden is closed off by a gate and closes at sunset.
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