The Basilica of Saint John Lateran (Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano) is the Cathedral of Rome. Until the Pope came back from Avignon and took up abode in Saint Peter’s Basilica, it was the most important Christian church in the world. The original church was built by Constantine, who was the first Christian emperor.
A brief history of the basilica of Saint John Lateran in Rome
In 314, a first basilica, commissioned by Emperor Constantine, was constructed in this site. At the time, the area was property of the Laterani family, which explains the name of the church. The current basilica follows the floor plan of the original one.
At the time, this site was far from the center of the city. The emperor himself was a big supporter of Christianity, but most of his contemporaries were not. He calculated it was better not to antagonize his people by building an enormous Christian church in the city center.
St. John Lateran remained the main Christian church and also the Pope’s residence until 1309, when he moved his seat to Avignon.
In the course of the centuries the basilica underwent many restorations, sometimes to repair damages, often in honor of a Jubilee.
The Loggia delle Benedizioni was created for the 1300 Jubilee. You need to walk around the Palazzo Laterano to be able to see it.
Borromini renovated the interior between the years 1645 and 1650 and later also redesigned the floor. He had also wanted to redo the 16th century ceiling, with the 12 aediculas hosting statues of the Apostles and decorated with a dove, the symbol of the Pamphilj family, but in the end it was left intact.
It was Borromini‘s idea to place the funerary monuments in the side naves, between the chapels and on the inner side of the pillars.
The facade was designed by Alessandro Galilei and was erected between 1732 and 1735. The work was ordered by Pope Clement XII Corsini. It consists of a row of pillars and Corinthian semi-columns, a central tympanum and a balustrade with 15 statues. Pope Clement had the Corsini coat of arms as well as an inscription honouring himself placed on the facade.
The 15 statues topping the facade depict Christ, Saint John the Baptist, Saint John the Evangelist and 12 Doctors of the Church (a title given to saints recognized as having made a significant contribution to theology or doctrine).
The presbytery and apse were redone in the end of the 19th century.
What to see in the basilica of St. John Lateran
The portico is embellished with reliefs showing scenes from the life of Saint John the Baptist. The statue of Constantine in the atrium was originally found in the baths on the Quirinal Hill.
The wings on the central door originally decorated the Curia in the Roman Forum.
The Holy Door (only to be opened during Jubilee years) is the last one on the right.
The basilica of Saint John in Lateran consists of five naves.
Works of art in San Giovanni in Laterano
The orginal apse mosaic was the work of Jacopo Torriti. It was commissioned by Nicholas IV. The present mosaic is a copy of the original and was done by Vespignani.
The original Loggia delle Benedizioni (“Loggia of the Blessings”), commissioned by Boniface VIII, was constructed for the 1300 Jubilee. The present loggia is a result of a late 16th century renovation ordered by Sixtus V.
There are 15th century frescoes by Gentile da Fabriano and Pisanello.
The transept was decorated by Clement VIII (1600).
The stucco reliefs are by Alessandro Algardi.
Giovanni di Stefano made the tabernacle at the end of the nave. Beneath it is the papal altar. Here only the Pope himself is allowed to serve mass.
The tomb of Pope Martin V was made by Simone Ghini.
Cavalier d’Arpino, Cesare Nebbia, Orazio Gentileschi, and Giovanni Baglione are some of the 16th century mannerist painters whose work can be found in the transept.
The fresco fragment in the right middle nave was originally part of the Loggia delle Benedizioni.
The far left nave shows a copy of a lying statue by Arnolfo di Cambio. (Its original can be found in the cloister.)
The mosaics in the Chapel of St. Venantius include the figure of St. Venantius himself.
Cloister
Apart from the basilica itself it is well worth visiting both the cloister, which holds pieces of the original basilica, and the museum (which displays vestments, altar cloths and holy vessels). The entrance fee to the cloister is 5 Euros.
Underneath the Basilica
Six meters underneath the floor of the basilica there are ruins that partially belong to the 1st century estate of the Laterano family and partially to the 2nd century Castro Nova Equitum, the barracks of a horse brigade. The brigade, which had supported Maxentius, was dissolved after Contantine had defeated his enemy and the barracks were destroyed, its walls to be used as a foundation for the Saint John in Lateran Basilica.
Curiosities
According to an ancient legend, on the night between June 23rd and 24th a Witches’ Sabbath used to be held near the Basilica of St. John Lateran. One of the ways Romans protected themselves from its evil was by having snails for dinner that night.
The official name of the church is Arcibasilica Papale e Cattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore e dei Santi Giovanni Battista ed Evangelista in Laterano, which would mean so much as “Patriarchal Arcibasilica and Cathedral of the Holy Saviour and of the Saints John the Baptist and the Evangelist in Lateran”. It is also know as “Mother of All Churches” and Basilica Costantiniana.
Visiting the basilica of St. John Lateran
Address and public transportation
The address of the Basilica of Saint John in Lateran is Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano – Rome (tel. +39 06 69886493). The main entrance is in the Piazza di Porta San Giovanni, however. Metro: San Giovanni (line A, C).
Opening times
Basilica: From 07.00 till 18.45. Cloister: From 09.00 till 18.00. Museum: From 10.00 till 17.30.
Admission
Entrance to the basilica is free. Entrance to the cloister is 5 Euros (free with the Omnia Card, which also gives you fast access to the basilica). Note that, being one of the most important churches in Rome, your bags will be checked before you enter the church.
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