Rome’s Saint Mary Major (Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, in Italian) is one of the four patriarchal basilicas in Rome. It was constructed by Sixtus III in the fifth century A.D. It was Pope Francis‘ favourite church. Apart from the church you can visit a small museum, get a (rather underwhelming) underground tour and a tour of the loggia and roof top.
Opening hours and admission (2026)
Opening hours: 07.00 till 18.45. Admission: Free (but the museum costs 3 Euros, and the Loggia delle Benedizioni, the Sala dei Papi and the Scala del Bernini together 5 Euros and the underground excavations 5 Euros. Except for the museums these can only be visited in the company of an official guide).
Snow in August
Each August 5th, from 9 PM until midnight, there will be a reenactment of the miraculous snowfall that earned the basilica its nickname Saint Mary of the Snow.
History
The location of the basilica was chosen at the precise spot where, in the year 352, after an apparition of the Virgin Mary, snow fell in mid summer (August 5th). Sometimes Saint Mary Major is therefore also called Santa Maria della Neve (“Saint Mary of the Snow”).
The basilica was first constructed by Pope Liberius in the year 358. Pope Sixtus III had it completely rebuilt between 432 and 440. The bell-tower was added in 1376 and is the tallest one in Rome (75m).
In 1743 Ferdinando Fuga renovated the facade after a design he had originally created for the Basilica of Saint John in Lateran.
Apart from Fuga, several famous architects including Domenico Fontana, Arnolfo di Cambio and Giacomo della Porta contributed in the course of the centuries.
Saint Mary Major is the only one of Rome‘s basilicas still retaining its original structure.
The Maggiore part in the name refers to the basilica being the biggest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in the city.
The first version of the church was a lot smaller than the present basilica. The steps leading up to the entrance show the exact width of the original church.
What to see in the Basilica of Saint Mary Major
Bell tower (Campanile)
The Romanesque bell tower, with its height of 75 meters, is the tallest one in Rome. It was built between 1375 and 1376. It was raised later and completed in the second half of the 15th century, at the behest of Cardinal William d’Estouteville.
The bell tower has 5 ancient bells. The biggest one is kept in the belfry and dates back to 1289. It was cast by Guidotto Pisano for the Savelli family. The other ones were added between the 16th and 19th centuries. Another 12th century bell, donated by a cahmberlain of Pope Callistus II, was later moved to the Vatican Museums.
One of the bells got the nickname Campana della Sperduta (“Bell of the Lost One”). According to a 16th century legend, a shepherdess got lost in the dark and the bell was rung in order to guide her home. She never returned, but it became a tradition to ring the bell at 9 PM every evening. Another story claims that a lost pilgrim had prayed to Mary to guide him to Rome. Thanks to the ringing of the bell he found his way and in gratitude he paid for the bell to rung every night at 9 PM.
The clock is an early 19th century addition.
The baroque facade of the church shows an elegant loggia with 3 arches. The mosaics visible behind the arches picture the miracle of the snow and date back to the 2nd half of the 12th century.
Saint Mary Major is one of the few important churches in Rome that can be viewed from all sides, including the back, with its magnificent apse.
Portico and Holy Door
The Holy Door is located on the left side of the portico. The bronze sculpture dates back to the year 2000 and symbolises a reconciliation with God and a new beginning. The most prominent part of the sculpture shows the Risen Christ and the Virgin Mary. The upper part depicts the “Annunciation” and “Pentecost”. The lower part depicts the “Council of Ephesus” (left) and the “Second Vatican Council”. During the former the Virgin Mary was officially proclaimed “Mother of God” and during the latter “Mater Ecclesiae” (Mother of the Church). The lower part of the door depicts, on the left, the Council of Ephesus, which affirmed the Virgin’s divine motherhood by naming her ‘Mother of God’ (Theotòkos), and, on the right, the Second Vatican Council, which named her ‘Mater Ecclesiae’. The sculptor was Luigi Enzo Mattei. Its doors were last opened on 1 January and closed on 25 December 2025.
The other main point of interest below the portico is the large bronze statue of King Philip IV of Spain. The statue was designed by Bernini and cast by Girolamo Lucenti in 1665. King Philip was one of the basilica’s most generous benefactors.
Interior
The interior of Saint Mary Major consists of 3 naves, the middle one of which having a Renaissance caisson ceiling. The naves are decorated with frescoes picturing Old and New Testament scenes. The triumphal arch is adorned with 5th century mosaic showing Jesus as an infant.
Giuliano San Gallo designed the ceiling with gilded panels. The gold was donated by Queen Isabella of Spain. It is supposed to have been part of the first shipment from the newly discovered America.
The cosmatesque marble floor, which was laid during the Middle Ages, is from the regione Lazio itself.
The 13th century mosaics in the apse were created by Jacopo Torriti and have the “Triumph of Maria” as their theme.
The new cathedra (bishop’s seat) of the basilica was inaugurated in 2023, together with the new ambo. The heights of both were adjusted to align them with the papal altar, as requested by Pope Francesco.
The Madonna Altar dates back to the 12th century, the Loggia and its frescoes to the 14th.
The one in Saint Peter’s Basilica is not the only Sistine Chapel in Rome. Domenico Fontana designed another one for Saint Mary Major in the 16th century.
The baldachin was added in the 18th century.
Flaminio Ponzo was responsible for the baroque Capella Paulina.
The rather unadorned tomb to the right of the main altar contains the mortal remains of the sculptor and architect Bernini.
The main altar itself was designed by Ferdinando Fuga. Later it was embellished by Valadier.
Other interesting highlights are the Baptistery, the Relic of the Holy Cradle and a 13th century presepe (nativity scene) by Arnolfo da Cambio.
Cappella Sforza
The Sforza Chapel is one of the less exuberantly decorated chapels in the basilica. It was constructed to be the mausoleum of Cardinals Guido Ascanio Sforza di Santa Fiora and Alessandro Sforza. In 1562, the brothers managed to get Michelangelo (then 87 years old) for the project. he devised an oblique rectangular plan, with elliptical side apses and a square space for the altar. After Michelangelo’s death, Tiberio Calcagni and Giacomo della Porta designed the side tombs. In 2024, after a four year restoration, the “Assumption of the Virgin” altarpiece by Girolamo Siciolante was returned to its spot.
Column and obelisk
The column on the Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore in front of the church used to adorn the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine. The statue crowning the column represents Mary. It is now known as the Colonna della Pace (“Column of Peace”). The fountain was added a year later.
The obelisk on the Piazza dell’Esquilino at the back of the basilica came from the Mausoleum of Augustus.
Curiosities
The Porta Maggiore, one of the city’s oldest and biggest city gates, was not named thus because of its size, but because there used to be a street leading directly to the basilica from there.
The “Saint Mary of the Snow” nickname can be confusing, since there is a church officially called Santa Maria della Neve in Rome.
Address and public transport
Address: Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore – Rome (tel. +39 06 69886800). Public transport: Metro: Termini, Vittorio Emanuele. Bus: 16, 71, 75, 105, 105L, 150F , 714, 717, C3, N1, N2, N12, N18. Tram: 5, 14.
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