The church of Saint Paul’s Within the Walls (San Paolo entro le Mura) is Rome‘s episcopal Anglican church and was the first non-Catholic church in the city to be built after the unification of Italy. It is located on the Via Nazionale shopping street.
A brief history of the church of Saint Paul’s Within The Walls in Rome
Saint Paul‘s was designed by the English architect George Edmond Street, in a Romanesque Gothic style. The work had been commissioned by Reverend Robert J. Nevin who had acquired the terrain and gotten permission from the Italian government.
The cornerstone was laid on January 25, 1873 (feast day of Saint Paul). Construction lasted until 1876. The church is recognizable by alternating red and travertine layers of bricks and a rose window with Evangelist symbols. The bell-tower has mullioned windows.
It may seem surprising that there was no earlier protestant church in Rome. This is explained, however, by the fact that, until 1870, Rome was ruled by the Popes. And the Popes did not allow non-Catholic churches within the city walls. Once Italy became its own country, the Vatican lost its power and permission to build the church was granted by the government of the new country.
What to see in the Chiesa di San Paolo entro le Mura
Exterior
The “Doors of Christian Unity”
The bronze “Doors of Christian Unity” were designed by Dimitri Hadzi in 1966. They commemmorate the 1960 meeting of Pope John XXIII and the Archbishop of Canterbury. The mosaics around the portal and the rose window are by George Breck.
Rose Window
The impressive rose window shows Christ the King in the center. He is surrounded by the early Roman martyrs Ignatius, Agnes, Sebastian, Cecilia, Lawrence, Prudenciana, Clement and Petronilla.
Interior
The apse and its mosaics
The apse mosaics were designed by Edward Burne Jones. The theme of the first arch is the “Annunciation” and show the archangel Gabriel greeting Mary. The second arch shows Jesus, with the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil, and Adam and Eve.
The main mosaic shows Christ in the central part. Angels are depicted in the sections above and below him. He is flanked by archangels standing before the gates of heaven. One gate, which would have been Lucifer’s before his fall from grace, is empty. The lower part of the mosaic is the most interesting one. It shows five groups of people, starting on the left with mystics and hermits such as St. Francis of Assisi. Then, in order, saints who served God in ordinary life, The church fathers (including St. Paul himself), female saints (including the Virgin Mary) and finally Christian warriors and national patron saints.
Some of the latter have been depicted with the faces of famous people, such as Abraham Lincoln (Saint Andrew), Giuseppe Garibaldi (San Giacomo) and General Grant (Saint Patrick).
Back wall mosaics
The mosaics of the back wall were the work of George Breck and were made in 1913. The mosaic above the door depicts a Nativity Scene. Bethlehem is depicted to the left, and Jerusalem to the right of the rose window. The mosaic below shows “Adam coming to Life in the Garden of Eden”.
Stained glass windows
The stained glass windows date back to 1876. They were made by the English firm of Clayton and Bell. The windows follow the life of St. Paul and are meant to be seen in chronological order. The last window is by the garden door.
General decorations
There are works of modern art in the courtyard and some ancient sarcophagi in the church itself. A nice-looking, half-hidden baptismal font is located to the right of the entrance. It consists of an octagonal basin on a polygonal pillar. Decorations include inlaid plant motifs and sculpted leaves. The front face is sculpted with an angel holding a shield with a crown of thorns. It was made in 1880, by English sculptors. A second, medieval-looking font is placed in front of the organ.
Opera Music Within the Walls
Several times a month, the Virtuosi dell’Opera perform at the Church of Saint Paul’s Within the Walls.
Tickets cost between 28 and 38 Euros. There is a 5 Euro discount for Roma Pass holders, under 18’s and students under 27. The concerts start at 8.30 PM. It is possible to book by phone: +39 064826296.
What to know before your visit
The official address is Via Napoli, 58 – Rome. The main entrance is on the Via Nazionale side, though. Phone: +39 4883339. Admission to the church is free.
Saint Paul’s within the Walls Church Rome
Sources
- Saint Paul’s with the Walls – Visitor’s Guide to our building (brochure of the church itself).
- Official Saint Paul’s with the Walls website
- Catalogo dei beni culturali
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