The Basilica of San Martino ai Monti is one of the oldest churches in Rome. The most interesting part of this church is the crypt, together with the ruins of the house where 2nd century Christians used to congregate. The ruins contain architectural elements of later versions of the church, up to the 9th century.
A brief history of the Santi Silvestro e Martino ai Monti in Rome
The official name of the church is Chiesa dei Santi Silvestro e Martino ai Monti – Titolo Equizio. Originally, Tituli were private buildings used as churches. Nowadays, a titular church is a church run by a Cardinal. Equitius was the name of the priest who had donated the site where the church was built. (The street running along the right flank is also called Via Equizia.)
The church of San Martino ai Monti was constructed in the 4th century AD (by Pope Sylvester I). The site had already been used since the 2nd century for Christian prayer meetings.
Over the course of the centuries it was reconstructed and/or restored many times, a.o. in the year 772 and in 845.
The church was built on top of an ancient Roman building that can still be visited from the crypt.
The baroque facade was designed in the 17th century, by Pietro da Cortona.
What to see
Exterior
The church has two entrances. The one on the back, facing the Piazza di San Martino ai Monti, is only rarely open. An inscription on the portal claims that both portals were commissioned by Cardinal Gabriele Paleotti, for the Giubileo of 1575. In reality the secondary portal was made in 1587.
The two reliefs on either side of the main portal depict the saints Silvestro and Martino.
At the bottom part of the right flank, you can see some tuff stone blocks from an earlier (2nd century BC) construction.
Interior
The interior consists of 3 naves that are separated by 24 marble columns with Corinthian capitols. The columns probably date back to the 6th century version of the church.
The frescoes on the right wall depict event from the life of the prophet Elias and were painted by Gaspare Dughet. The background to the paintings shows 17th century Roman landscapes. Dughet was the brother-in-law of Nicholas Poussin, annother French painter who spent most of his adult life in Rome.
The frescoes on the left wall were painted by Filippo Gagliardi and show the interiors of Saint Peter’s Basilica and of Saint John in Lateran. These are important from a historical perspective, since they show what Saint Peter‘s looked like before Borromini changed its structure.
Below the main altar the relics of the saints Artemius, Paulina and Sisinnius can be seen, which were brought here from the Catacombs of Priscilla.
The ceiling of the central nave was commissioned by cardinal Carlo Borromeo (1560).
Crypt and Roman ruins
It is possible to visit the crypt, and from the crypt the 3rd century ruins of the house where Equitius allowed religious ceremonies to be held. The underground part consists of a large underground space, divided into three naves by six pillars. Downstairs you can see a 6th century mosaic depicting Pope Sylvester, plus sarcophagi, wall decorations, a blackand white floor mosaic, reliefs and (mostly rather faded) frescoes. The Roman house had two floors and a door onto what is now the Via dei Selci, but was then called Clivus Suburranus.
Madonnelle
Near the church, you can see two Madonnelle. The first one is attached to the wall of the adjacent convent, the second one, unfortunately barely visible, to the wall of the Villa Brancaccio across the road.
What to know before you go
Address: Viale Monte Oppio, 28 – Rome (tel. +39 06 4784701 of 06 4873166). Opening hours: 07.30-12.00 and 16.00-19.00. Admission: Free. Metro: Vittorio Emanuele. Bus: 16, 75, 714, 717. (The crypt is also free, but not always open.)
Special Events
The church is dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours, and every year on November 11th there is a special celebration in his honor
Viale Monte Oppio, 28 – Rome
Bibliography
Mauro Lucentini, The Rome Guide (Step by Step Through History’s Greatest City).
Web sources
The underground part of Santa Maria dei Monti on Mirabilia Artwonders
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