The Church of San Zeno in Pisa is located just inside of the north-eastern city wall. This area used to be called alle grotte, which alluded to the presence of a several Roman ruins. Unrtunately the church is hardly ever open. We tried to visit twice over the 2024 Christmas period and both times it actually looked as if it had not been opened for a long time. The nearby city gate owes its name to the church.
A brief history of the Abbazia di San Zeno
Excavations evidence that the church was built on top of an already existing pagan structure with three apses.
The earliest documents referring to the Abbazia di San Zeno date back to 1029. In those days it was a Benedictine church. In the 12th century, the Camaldolese Order took over. Before an extensive reconstruction in the 15th century, it was part of a hospital complex.
After a long restoration, the church was reopened in 2000, mostly to be used for temporary exhibitions and concerts.
What to see
The facade is preceded by a portico supported by pillars and a central column. There are also some decorative Romanesque elements. The level above the portico is characterized by bifora’s. The upper part of the walls is sparsely decorated with copies of 11th century ceramic bowls of Ilamic origin. (The originals are in the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo.)
The interior consists of three naves, with reused Roman capitals and fragments of medieval wall paintings.
Porta San Zeno and Porta Monetaria
Behind the church the Porta San Zeno can be seen. In the 13th century this city gate also used to be known as the Porta Monetaria, because it stood near the Mint. In reality there was another Porta Monetaria further south. This gate is now cemented shut, however.
Address, opening hours and entrance fee
Address: Via San Zeno, 10 – 56127 Pisa. Tel. +39 050 553606. Opening hours: Only during mass. Admission: Free. The church is sometimes used for exhibitions.
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