The Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri in Rome was built by Michelangelo in the aula of the Tepidarium of the Baths of Diocletian in 1563. It is one of Rome’s biggest churches and is located in the Piazza della Repubblica, near the main railway station Roma Termini. Nowadays the church often serves as venue for state services.
A brief history of the basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri in Rome
In 1541, a Sicilian priest called Antonio Lo Duca had a vision inside the Santa Maria di Loreto Church. He saw seven martyrs, in a white light, rising up out of the Diocletian Baths. In the following years, Lo Duca tried to convince a succession of Popes to construct a church dedicated to the angels and martyrs. In 1561 Pope Pius IV finally commissioned construction of this church.
Construction of the church started in 1562, in the former aula of the tepidarium of the Baths of Diocletian. The project was designed by Michelangelo, who made sure to preserve the original grandeur of the monument. When Michelangelo died, his pupil Jacopo del Duca, took over. The work was finished in 1566. Michelangelo‘s original design can be seen in the sacristy of the church.
Starting from 1727, large altar pieces were moved from Saint Peter’s Basilica to Santa Maria degli Angeli. The originals were replaced by mosaics. Thus, paintings by 17th and 18th century masters can now be seen in the presbytery area and the transept.
In 1746, the main entrance was moved to the present spot, facing what is now Piazza della Repubblica.
In 1750, Luigi Vanvitelli renovated the interior of the basilica. He also installed a lantern for the dome, but this turned out to be a structural failure. Which was nothing to be ashamed of, since Michelangelo had earlier failed similarly.
Vanvitelli also designed a new facade, which was however removed again in the beginning of the 20th century.
What to see
The current facade is a wall of what used to be an exedra of the calidarium of the Baths of Diocletian. The exceptionally long transept corresponds to the old frigidarium.
Michelangelo had the old floor of the Terme raised by two meters, to combat the dampness of the ground. As a result, the pink granite pillars in the church are 15 meters tall instead of the original 17 meters. The diameter of these pillars is 1,60 meters.
Bronze entrance doors
The bronze doors of the church were designed by the contemporary artist Igor Mitoraj. The theme of the door on the right is the “Annunciation”, where the Archangel Gabriel tells Mary that she will give birth to the Son of God. The left door depicts the resurrection. Jesus is depicted as being one with the cross. Angels are depicted on the lunette of the right door, martyrs on the one of the left door. The doors weigh three tonnes and are 6.5 metres high and 3 metres wide. They were installed in 2005.
Vestibule
The main body of the church is preceded by a vestibule. The chapel on the left is dedicated to Mary Magdalene, the one on the right to the crucifix. The Cappella della Maddalena is used as a Baptistery and contains a 16th century “Noli me Tangere”, variously attributed to either Cesare Nebbia or the Flemish painter Hendrik van den Broeck. The altarpiece of the Cappella del Crocifisso (“Crucifixion of Christ”) was the work of Giacomo della Rocca.
A smaller space, also with a chapel on each side, leads into the transept. The Cappella di San Brunone (right) contains a 17th century altarpiece. The altarpiece of the Cappella di San Pietro (left) depicts “Jesus Christ handing the keys to St. Peter” (Girolamo Muziano, 1584). Marco Carloni was responsible for the “Liberation of St. Peter and St. Peter and St. Paul” frescoes decorating the side walls.
The statue of Saint Bruno of Cologne in an alcove on the right was made by the 18th century sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon. Pope Clement XIV claimed it to be so lifelike that the only reason it cannot speak is the vow of silence of the Carthusian Order which was founded by the saint.
The statue of an angel with a holy water vessel on the right was the work of Giovanni Battista Rossi, a pupil of Bernini.
Transept and presbytery
The paintings moved from St. Peter’s Basilica were created by some of the most famous artists of the time, such as Domenichino, Pomarancio, Carlo Maratti, Giovanni Francesco Romanelli, Girolamo Muziano, Pompeo Batoni, Pierre Subleyras, Pietro Bianchi, Placido Costanzi, Francesco Mancini, Pierre Charles Tremollière, and Nicolò Ricciolini.
The highlights include Domenichino‘s “Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian”.
Cappella di San Bruno
Dedicated to the founder of the Carthusian Order, the Chapel of San Bruno can seat up to 600 people and is used for concerts and cultural events. It was mostly decorated by Carlo Andrea Procaccini painted the frescoes depicting the Evangelists on the cross vault. The two bigger than lifesize statues near the right wall depict “Prayer” (1875) and “Meditation” (1874). They are copies of two of the four statues at the entrance to the monumental Verano cemetery.
MIllenium Organ
The Millenium Organ was a gift of the citizens of Rome to the then Pope John Paul II, in occasion of the Jubilee in the year 2000. It was built by Barthèlèmy Formentelli, has 5,400 pipes and is 11 meters wide and 12 meters tall.
Albergati Chapel
The Albergati chapel is located at the end of the right transept . It was built by the architect Clemente Orlandi in 1746. Niccolò Albergati was a Carthusian monk, who was beatified by Pope Benedict XIV on September 25, 1744. The altarpiece was the work of Ercole Graziani. Antonio Bicchierai and Giovanni Mezzetti were responsible for the vault decorations, with the Holy Spirit with cherubs in the center and depictions of Doctors of the Church (Jerome, Augustine, Ambrose, and Gregory) on the ribs. The two plaster statues flanking the altar were donated in 1834 by the German sculptor Federico Pettrich and depict the “Angels of Peace and Justice.” Two paintings by Francesco Trevisani, depicting scenes from “The Baptism of Water and Desire”, adorn the side walls above the tombs of Vittorio Emanuele Orlando and Thaon de Revel.
Meridian
The meridian in the right transept was made in 1702 by Francesco Bianchini. It was commissioned by Pope Clement XI, who couldn’t help but naming it Linea Clementina. One reason for creating the meridian was to better be able to calculate on which date Easter was to be held. The second one was to one-up the one just laid in Bologna‘s Saint Petronius Cathedral.
Oculus
The oculus of the dome contains a modern stained glass work of art by Narcissus Quagliata called “Light and Time” (1999). The glasswork contains three prismatic lenses designed by the Mexican astronomer Salvador Cuervas. On the dates of the equinoxes and the solstices, these create an image of the sun on the floor.
Guided tours
Guided tours of the basilica include an almost completely preserved set of stairs. They give access to a view from the upper terraces over the remains of the baths in all their enormity.
Practical information
Opening hours
Opening hours: From 07.30 till 18.30 (Sundays and holidays from 07.30 till 19.30). Admission: Free.
Address and public transport
Address: Piazza della Repubblica – Rome (tel. +39 06 4880812). Public transport: Metro line A (Repubblica); bus H, 40, 60, 64, 70.
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