The Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere was the first church in Rome to be dedicated to the Madonna and maybe also the first one where Mass could openly be celebrated. The depiction of Maria on the facade is probably the first one that show her breastfeeding Jesus. The church was built over a very early Christian foundation and is famous for its ornate mosaics.
A brief history of the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere in Rome
The Basilica was built by orders of Pope Callisto I, at the site where there used to be a Taberna Meritoria (a kind of rest-house for ex-soldiers). The Emperor Septimius Severus had given it to the Christians, saying he would rather that it was in the hands of believers, regardless of what these believers believed in.
In 340, under Pope Julius I, the church was enlarged and later two more restorations followed. In the year 1140, when Pope Innocent II had the basilica, including the tomb of his predecessor and rival Pope Anacletus II, completely torn down and rebuilt, with his own tomb in exactly the same spot, underneath the altar.
The foundation was left intact, however, and the basilica was reconstructed according to the original floor plan, The granite columns separating the nave from the aisles were taken from the Terme di Caracalla.
The ionic capitals alongside the nave were either also taken from these Baths or from the Temple dedicated to Isis on the Janiculum hill. In 1870, Pope Pius X, who was obviously less enlightened than Emperor Septimius, had all embellishments referring to Egyptian Gods removed.
Both the facade (1702) and the octagonal fountain in the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere were restored by Carlo Fontana. The picture of Maria on the facade is thought to be the first representation of Maria with Jesus at her breast.
The head of Saint Apollonia is kept as a relic in the basilica.
From the Via della Paglia you can see a part of the annex of the Santa Maria in Trastevere Church.
What to see in Santa Maria in Trastevere
Exterior
Bell tower
The brick bell tower dates back to the 12th century. Just below the top is an aediculum containing a “Madonna and Child” mosaic. The current clock is an 18th century addition and replaced an earlier Roman six-hour clock. The bell tower contains four bells, and is topped by a fifth one, called Letula.
Balustrade
The four statues topping the balustrade depict popes. The mosaic behind the statues dates from the 13th century. It depicts a breastfeeding Madonna surrounded by 10 women holding lamps. Eight of them are wearing a crown, and are holding a lit candle, symbolizing virginity. The remaining two are wearing a veil and are holding a spent lamp, probably indicating widows. The two kneeling figures at the Madonna’s feet are probably Popes Innocent II and Eugenio III, who commissioned the work.
Facade frescoes
Both the frescoes below and the ones above the mosaics were painted between 1866 and 1877, by Silverio Capparoni. The top ones depict Jesus making the blessing sign, seven candles, two kneeling angels and the symbold of the four Evangelists. Another kneeling figure depicts Pius IX (pope from 1846 to 1878). The bottom part depicts palm trees, grazing sheep and, on the outsides, the cities of Jerusalem and Bethlehem.
Portico
Architectural elements of older versions of the church have been incorporated in the walls. The fragments were found during excavations. There are also several funerary inscriptions, a rather striking sarcophagus with a lion relief and two frescoes. During the Christmas period, a nativity scene consisting a rather large scale model of the church itself is placed in the portico.
Interior
The mosaics decorating the top part of the apse date back to the time of Pope Innocent II (1130-1143). He died before the work was finished, but had left enough money so that the job could be completed. Which is why he is depicted in the mosaic, holding a model of the church. The mosaics below the band of sheep depict “Events from the Life of the Virgin” and were done around 1298 by Pietro Cavallini. They are among the first mosaics in a new, non-Byzantine style.
Ceiling
The wooding ceiling is decorated with the fresco Ascension (1617) by Domenichino. The oil-on-copper fresco is octagonal and only occupies a small part in the center of the ceiling. The ceiling itself was also designed by Domenichino.
Avila Chapel
The Avila Chapel is the 5th chapel on the right. This chapel was designed in 1686 by Antonio Gherardi. The most striking feature of this chapel is the dome, which itself has a dome, which seems to be held up by four angels. Gherardi, inspired by Borromini’s famous perspective in the nearby Palazzo Spada, designed a small, eye-deceiving hallway inside the chapel. By gradually converging the side walls, it seems a lot deeper than it actually is. The painting “St. Hieronymus” is also by Gherardi.
Altemps Chapel
The famous Altemps Chapel is the one to the left of the altar. It is named after Cardinal Marco Sittico Altemps, who had also paid for its construction. The overriding theme of the artworks in the chapel is the defense of the church against the reformation. It was also meant to be an exaltation of Pope Pius IV, the Cardinal’s uncle. Work on the chapel, which was designed by Martino Longhi, started in 1584.
Cavallini’s mosaics
The mosaic cycle between the windows was made in 1291 by Pietro Cavallini. They show six scenes from the life of Maria. These are “Birth of the Virgin”, “Annunciation”, “Birth”, “Veneration of the Kings”, “Presentation at the Temple” and “Maria’s Death”. The central panel shows the “Madonna and Child with the Saints Peter and Paul and Bertoldo Stefaneschi”. Stefaneschi was the person who had commissioned the work. Cavallini lived from 1259 to 1330 and was also responsible for some paintings in the nearby Santa Cecilia in Trastevere Church.
Address, opening hours and admission
Address: Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere – Rome (tel. +39 06 5814802). Opening hours: From 07.30 till 21.00 (in August from 08.00 till 12.00and from 16.00 till 21.00. Admission: Free.
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere – Rome
Sources
- Except for the Cavallini fresco, which is in the public domain, the photos were all taken by myself.
Leave a Reply