Basilica of Santa Prassede, Rome

Since its construction in the 5th century, the Basilica of Santa Prassede in Rome has undergone several restorations and reconstructions. It is located in a narrow alley at a short distance from the Basilica of Saint Mary Major and no more than a 5 minute walk from the main railway station Termini in the Esquilino district of Rome.

A brief history of the basilica of Santa Prassede in Rome

The saint

The history of Prassede is described in the Passionari, a collection of saints’ lives, written by a number of monks in the 5th and the 6th centuries. It needs to be noted, however, that these are not necessarily based on actual facts.

Prassede was the daughter of a 2nd century Roman consul who had converted to Christianity. He had turned his home into a domus ecclesiae (a private dwelling where Christians secretly celebrated mass).

When the Romans found out they killed all the Christians in the house. Prassede made sure that they were all buried in the Catacombs of Priscilla. Not much later she too was murdered by the Romans.

The church

The name of the church is a bit misleading, since Prassede never was a saint. Like her sister Pudenziana, who also gave her name to a Roman church, she was the daughter of the Senator Pudente, who once showed hospitality to Saint Peter. It is rather remarkable that the bones of the two sisters, although they never made it to sainthood, are still to be found in this church.

The two sisters can also be seen in the apse, since they are depicted next to Christ.

The Chiesa di Santa Prassede in its present form was built by Pope Adrian I, around the year 780.

What to see

In the Via di San Martino ai Monti, the original medieval entrance can still be seen. This entrance opens onto a small courtyard, which is usually kept closed. The remains of the colonnade in this courtyard were part of the original church.

The interior of the Santa Prassede Church is much more spacious and impressive than the exterior would suggest. The current entrance is in an alley.

The interior consisted of three naves separated by 12 granite columns, six of which have been converted into pillars. These support the arches of the smaller aisles. The floor decoration dates from the last century, but is based on the old Cosmatesque floors often seen in many Roman churches.

In the center of the cosmatesque floor, a red stone can be seen. This stone covers a well where, according to tradition, Saint Praxedes collected the blood of, according to legend, several thousands of martyrs.

Chapel of San Zeno

Halfway down the right nave (this means to the left of the current entrance to the basilica) is the Cappella di San Zenone. It was built by Pope Pasquale I as a mausoleum for his mother Theodora. The urn containing Zeno’s remains is located on the arch supported by two black granite pillars. The vaulted chapel, nicknamed the “Garden of Paradise”, is decorated entirely with mosaics. Christ, the Madonna, Santa Prassede himself and Theodora are depicted with the halo of the living. The “Madonna and Child” can be seen in the niche above the altar.

In an alcove to the right of the entrance to the San Zeno Chapel is a reliquary. It contains a column brought from Jerusalem to Rome by Cardinal Giovanni Colonna in 1223. According to tradition, Jesus was tied to this column when he was flogged. The reliquary is made of gilded bronze. The cuts in the reliquary were caused by fragments being used as relics.

Apse mosaics

The gilded mosaics for which the church is famous were made by Byzantine artists. The apse mosaic depicts the forefathers, dressed in white, looking down from heaven flanked by the Chosen. Christ raises his right arm to show the stigmata. In his other hand he holds a scroll. The background is formed by a blue sky with white clouds. He is accompanied by the saints Peter and Paul, who present the two sisters to the lord. Pope Pasquale himself, with a square halo, and a blanket are also depicted.

The mosaics on the arch have the Apocalypse as their theme. Jesus is depicted here as the Lamb of God. He is surrounded by the four evangelists, with 24 elderly people on the sides. The city depicted in the centre of the triumphal arch is Jerusalem, with Christ surrounded by the apostles. On the outside are a number of chosen ones, including Prassede and Pudenziana. Santa Prasssede and Santa Pudenziana stand next to Christ and are embraced by the Saints Peter and Paul. There are palm trees and lambs in the background.

Crypt

The relics of the two sisters are preserved in two sarcophagi in the crypt. The floor of the crypt is made of inlaid marble.

More art works and other points of interest

The long marble table to the left of the nave is said to have been used by Santa Prassede as a bed for self-mortification.

The urn under the architrave at the entrance contains the bones of San Valentino.

One of the most striking tombs is the one of Monsignor Santoni. It is said that the bust was made by a 10-year-old Bernini.

Napoleon found the two red granite steps leading to the high altar so beautiful that he wanted them to be brought to his imperial throne in Paris. This plan was never carried out.

The bell tower is located at the end of the left transept. It was built around the turn of the 11th and 12th centuries. The two bells were added in 1621.

Address, opening hours and admission

Address: Via di Santa Prassede, 9/a – Rome (tel. +39 06 4882456). The nearest bus stop is Santa Maria Maggiore (16, 70, 71, 75, 360, 649, 714, F20). Opening hours: From 07.00 till 12.00 and from 16.00 till 18.30. Admission: Free.

Via di Santa Prassede, 9/a – Rome