Tiburtino (Q. VI) is the official name of this district in Rome, but most Romans refer to it as San Lorenzo. The latter, however, is just one part of the quartiere, but it is here that most of Rome‘s students live, thanks to the presence of the La Sapienza University.
A brief history of the Tiburtino district in Rome (Q. VI)
Apart from the division in so-called rioni and quartieri there often is another division and that is the way the Romans themselves call parts of the city. Initially, in 1915, when the first quartieri were named, Tiburtino and San Lorenzo covered exactly the same area, but in 1931 the district was enlarged and the following year Casal Bertone was added. Thus the official Tibertino district became bigger, whereas the popular name of San Lorenzo stuck with the original part of the new quartiere.
On July 19th 1943, the district was bombed. Thousands of people lost their lives and 58 buildings were completely destroyed. A monument in the Parco Caduti 19 Luglio 1943 commemmorates this event.
Surprisingly, despite the huge student population, Tiburtino is one of the areas with the highest average age in Rome.
What to see in the Tiburtino district
San Lorenzo is clearly the main attraction of the area. Although it is not a very picturesque neighbourhood (apart from the parts close to the city walls) it oozes atmosphere. Especially on Friday and Saturday nights, when traffic is not allowed into most of its streets, it can be extremely cozy.
The Cimitero del Verano is a beautiful and well-kept church-yard and also the Città Universitaria is in Tiburtino.
The Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori Le Mura (Saint Lawrence Outside the Walls) is one of Rome’s patriarchal basilicas. San Lorenzo himself is buried in the church, as is Italy’s very first prime minister, Alcide de Gasperi.
Street art in San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo is also known for its street art. One of the best examples is an anti-war mural by the collective Guerilla Spam on the corner of the Via dei Sabelli and Via degli Equi. The painting covers three blank walls created by the partial destruction of a building during the bombing of the San Lorenzo district on July 19th 1943. The composition is arranged as a triptych, with two war scenes on either side and a central “Black Madonna” figure embracing all the peoples of the earth. The work is not just meant as a memorial, but also as a warning for the future.
The “Pact of Europa” mural is a reinterpretation of Titian’s 1560 painting “Rape of Europa” (Ratto d’Europa, it works better in Italian). Titian’s painting depicts Jupiter, transformed into a bull, abducting Princess Europa as she attempts to escape him. The mural depicts a young woman with a heifer. The creators are two artists, Francesca Melina and Gioele Bertin (aka Meliska e Morf), who call themselves the Howlers Crew.
Eating in San Lorenzo
Thanks to the students’ presence in the area, there are of course many cheap place to eat. A perennenial favorite is Formula 1, one of the oldest and best pizzerias in the city. The Pizzeria Economica around the corner on the Via Tiburtina is equally good and affordable.
A famous trattoria, recommended by many guidebooks, is Tram-Tram, near the Verano cemetery.
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