The Via delle Botteghe Oscure (“Street of the Dark Shops”) is located in the centre of Rome. The street is lined by several historical buildings and connects the Via d’Aracoeli to the Piazza Calcari. The main attraction in the street is the Crypta Balbi, at the moment closed for restoration.
A brief history of the Via delle Botteghe Oscure in Rome
In Roman times, this area was taken up by the Teatro di Balbo, built in 13 BC by Lucius Cornelius Balbo. The street signs indicate that the Via delle Botteghe Oscure owes its name to the “once half-buried arches of the Theatre and Crypt of Balbo”. During the Middle Ages, the ruins of the monument, were used by artisans and shopkeepers as, usually windowless, commercial space.
What to see in the Via delle Botteghe Oscure
Palazzo Marchini
The Palazzo Marchini (n. 4) was constructed in 1938, after the buildings previously occupying the plot had been demolished. It was the seat of the Italian Communist Party from 1946 until 1991, when the party was dissolved. Its size earned itself the nickname Il Bottegone (“the big shop”). The building is named after the brothers Alvaro and Alfio Marchini, two partisan businessmen who financed its construction and donated it to the party. Alvaro was also founder of the communist newspaper l’Unità and president of AS Roma football club. After several changes of ownership, the building is at the moment being turned into a luxury hotel. The hallway of the building was designed by the artist Giò Pomodoro.
Crypta Balbi
At the moment, the Crypta Balbi is the seat of one of the seats of the Museo Nazionale Romano. The visitor entrance is in the Via delle Botteghe Oscure, n. 31.
Via Michelangelo Caetani
The Via Michelangelo Caetani is a side street separating the Crypta Balbi and the Palazzo Caetani. It is in this street that the body of Aldo Moro, assassinated by the Red Brigades, was found in 1978.
Palazzo Caetani
The Palazzo Caetani dates back to the 16th century. Originally built by Alessandro Mattei, member of a family that owned several buildings in the district, in 1776 it was acquired by the Caetani. At the moment, it is the seat of the Brasilian Embassy to the Holy See.
Building in n. 54
The history of the building across the road (n. 54) is closely linked to the one of the Palazzo Marchini. In order to spy on the comings and goings of the Communist Party building, the American Embassy was secretly renting the building, which became the headquarters of the CIA in Italy.
Church of San Stanislao dei Polacchi
The 18th century Church of San Stanislao dei Polacchi is the national Polish church in Rome. The inscription on the facade still refers to the earlier dedication of Santissimo Salvatore e San Stanislao. The church was built on top of the late 12th century San Salvatore in Pensili de Sorraca.
How to get to Via delle Botteghe Oscure
Bus lines 30, 46, 63, 81, 87, 190F, 628, 916, 916F and tram line H stop at the fermata Botteghe Oscure.