The Villa Borghese is probably the most famous park in Rome and one of its biggest ones, together with the Villa Doria Pamphili and the Villa Ada. With the Galleria Borghese, the Modern Art Gallery, the Etruscan Museum (the last two are really located just outside the park) and several smaller museums within its borders, it may well be called the city’s museum park.
A brief history of the Villa Borghese in Rome
Until 1605, what is now the Villa Borghese area had been used as a vineyard and in antiquity was known as the Gardens of Lucullus. The Borghese were not the only family to contruct a villa in the area, but theirs was the largest one.
Constructed in the early 17th century, the villa was commissioned by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, who was a nephew of the then Pope Paul V. His former residence is now the seat of the Galleria Borghese, one of the city’s most popular museums. The architect of this palace was Flaminio Ponzio. His design was based on sketches by the cardinal himself.
Architects who participated in the project were Jerome Rainaldi and Vasanzio. The latter was Dutch and his real name was Jan van Staten.
The gardens were divided into a wooded section, a wilder, more natural-looking part and a landscaped area dotted with statues, sculptures and fountains.
In the 18th century, the Villa Borghese was completely renovated. The new design was the work of two local architects, called Antonio and Mario Asprucci. The sculptor Christopher Unterperger gave the park a neoclassical facelift by placing statues, fountains and fake temples all over the gardens.
In 1903, the Italian king bought the Villa Borghese. He donated it to the city and it was made into a public park (which unofficially it had already been for a long time).
Villa Borghese highlights
Pincio
The southern part of the park, between the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps is taken up by the Pincio Hill, which was not part of the original Villa Borghese. Especially from the part nearest the Spanish Steps you can enjoy a gorgeous view over the rooftops and church domes of the historical center. The Casina Valadier and the Villa Medici are two beautiful palaces along the way. The latter is the seat of the French Academy in Rome and sometimes hosts exhibitions.
Piazza di Siena
The Piazza di Siena is not really a square, but a sandy area used for equestrian dressage and jumping. Concerts are held here as well. It was created towards the end of the 18th century, by Prince Marcantonio IV Borghese. The square was supposed to be similar to the Piazza del Campo in Siena, city of origin of the Borghese family. Construction was not completed until after the prince’s death. From that moment it became a spot for popular festivals and other events. Nowadays it hosts the famous Concorso Ippico Internazionale “Piazza di Siena”.
It is almost next to a small and rather badly maintained play area for children, which includes a library/bookstore.
Galleria Borghese
The Galleria Borghese is the most famous one of the museums in this park. It is located in the north-eastern section and houses an important sculpture and painting collection.
Aviary and Casino della Meridiana
The aviary is located a little bit further down the Viale dell’Uccelliera. It was built at the start of the 17th century and at one time housed rare birds (such as peacocks, swans and ostriches).
The Casino or Padiglione della Meridiana is one of the pavilions in the Secret Gardens of Villa Borghese. It was designed by Carlo Rainaldi following the construction of the Casino dell’Uccelliera, which originally housed the villa’s aviary. The building owes its a sundial with marble and stucco decorations. The inscription below the sundial reads: SIDERA NON TERRAM MENTE COLENDA DOCENT (“They teach us to use the mind to study the stars, not the earth”).
Zoo
The entrance to the Zoo (Bioparco) is not far from the Galleria Borghese.
Artificial lake
There is an artificial lake in the middle of the park. You can rent canoes and rowboats or you can walk around this lake and look at all the statues surrounding it. The small temple on an island near the western bank of the lake is dedicated to Aesculapius. The Temple of Aesculapius was built in the 18th century and consists of a portico with a triangular pediment supported by four Ionic capitals. There are several Greek statues on its roof. Behind the portico there is a statue of Aesculapius himself. The small bridge leading to the island cannot be used by the public.
Parco dei Daini
The “Park of the Fallow Deer”, or “Park of Perspectives”, is a smaller park inside the Villa Borghese. This part used to be reserved for Prince Borghese. Colossal herms, mad by Pietro and Gian Lorenzo Bernini, decorated the lanes running through this rea. The park owes its name to the animals that used to roam here. Close to the boundary wall, you can see the backdrop of the Perspective of the Theater, built around 1615, and decorated with ancient reliefs. The water tower in the Parco dei Daini was designed by Raffaele De Vico.
Decorations
The Fortezzuola is a Gothic garden, dotted with sculptures by Pietro Canonica.
The so-called English Pavilion houses the British School in Rome and was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens.
There are fountains all over the park. One of the most interesting ones is the Fountain of the Winged Victories in the Viale Goethe.
Villa Borghese for children
The Villla Borghese is a great environment to take your children to, as there are many things to see and do in the park. Apart from the zoo, there are several playgrounds, a special library for children and a huge inflatable slide. Skaters show off their skills, bicycles are for hire and there is a little train going through the park as well.
Combine your visit with
The Villa Giulia is the seat of the Etruscan Museum. Even if you are not interested in the museum itself, the courtyard of this palace is extremely picturesque and can be entered for free. The villa is named after Pope Julius II, who had his residency here.
The white marble building next to the Etruscan Museum is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna. This palace was, quite unusual for Rome, specifically built to house the city’s modern art collection. The best chance you will ever have to get an overview of the major Italian art movements of the 20th century.
Address and public transport
The Villa Borghese has several entrances. The easiest ones to reach from the centre are at the Piazzale Flaminio (metro Flaminio), the Spanish Steps (metro Spagna) and the Via Veneto (metro Barberini). There are other entrances near the Galleria Borghese and across the road from the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna.
The Propilei Neoclassici are two neoclassical temples, flanking the entrance to the Villa Borghese from Piazzale Flaminio. They date back to the 19th century, when Giuseppe Valadier renovated the villa and park for Prince Camillo Borghese. The buildings are decorated with symbols from the Borghese family coat of arms (eagle and dragon). The Propilei of the Acropolis of Athens were an inspiration for Valadier.
Opening hours and admission
Admission is free. The Villa Borghese is officially open from sunrise till sunset. In reality you can more or less enter the park whenever you want. However, it is not recommended to visit the park at night, especially for women.
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